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　　Test 3- Section 3

　　[00:45.21TUTOR: OK, Jim.

　　[00:46.67You wanted to see me about your textile design project.

　　[00:50.31JIM: That's right.

　　[00:51.25I've been looking at how a range of natural dyes can be used to colour fabrics like cotton and wool.

　　[00:57.54TUTOR: Why did you choose that topic?

　　[00:59.67JIM: Well, I got a lot of useful ideas from the museum, you know, at that exhibition of textiles.

　　[01:05.67But I've always been interested in anything to do with colour.

　　[01:09.21Years ago, I went to a carpet shop with my parents when we were on holiday in Turkey, and I remember all the amazing colours.

　　[01:16.51TUTOR: They might not all have been natural dyes.

　　[01:19.32JIM: Maybe not, but for the project I decided to follow it up.

　　[01:23.58And I found a great book about a botanic garden in California that specialises in plants used for dyes.

　　[01:30.54TUTOR: OK.

　　[01:31.42So, in your project, you had to include a practical investigation.

　　[01:35.69JIM: Yeah.

　　[01:37.10At first I couldn't decide on my variables.

　　[01:40.05I was going to just look at one type of fibre for example, like cotton ...

　　[01:44.41TUTOR: ... and see how different types of dyes affected it?

　　[01:47.36JIM: Yes.

　　[01:48.47Then I decided to include others as well, so I looked at cotton and wool and nylon.

　　[01:54.13TUTOR: With just one type of dye?

　　[01:55.87JIM: Various types, including some that weren't natural, for comparison.

　　[01:59.75TUTOR: OK.

　　[02:00.74JIM: So, I did the experiments last week.

　　[02:04.01I used some ready-made natural dyes, I found a website which supplied them, they came in just a few days, but I also made some of my own.

　　[02:12.79TUTOR: That must have taken quite a bit of time.

　　[02:15.22JIM: Yes, I'd thought it'd just be a matter of a teaspoon or so of dye, and actually that wasn't the case at all.

　　[02:22.54Like I was using one vegetable, beetroot, for a red dye, and I had to chop up a whole pile of it.

　　[02:29.06So it all took longer than I'd expected.

　　[02:31.74TUTOR: One possibility is to use food colourings.

　　[02:34.58JIM: I did use one.

　　[02:35.88That was a yellow dye, an artificial one.

　　[02:38.41TUTOR: Tartrazine?

　　[02:39.77JIM: Yeah.

　　[02:39.94I used it on cotton first.

　　[02:42.13It came out a great colour, but when I rinsed the material, the colour just washed away.

　　[02:47.11I'd been going to try it out on nylon, but I abandoned that idea.

　　[02:51.27TUTOR: Were you worried about health issues?

　　[02:54.00JIM: I'd thought if it's a legal food colouring, it must be safe.

　　[02:57.33TUTOR: Well, it can occasionally cause allergic reactions, I believe.

　　[03:47.50TUTOR: So what natural dyes did you look at?

　　[03:50.07JIM: Well, one was turmeric.

　　[03:52.37The colour's great, it's a really strong yellow.

　　[03:55.50It's generally used in dishes like curry.

　　[03:58.56TUTOR: It's meant to be quite good for your health when eaten, but you might find it's not permanent when it's used as a dye - a few washes, and it's gone.

　　[04:06.28JIM: Right.

　　[04:07.60I used beetroot as a dye for wool.

　　[04:10.32When I chop up beetroot to eat I always end up with bright red hands, but the wool ended up just a sort of watery cream shade.

　　[04:18.27Disappointing.

　　[04:18.73TUTOR: There's a natural dye called Tyrian purple.

　　[04:21.92Have you heard of that?

　　[04:22.71JIM: Yes.

　　[04:23.10It comes from a shellfish, and it was worn in ancient times but only by important people as it was so rare.

　　[04:30.41I didn't use it.

　　[04:32.26TUTOR: It fell out of use centuries ago, though one researcher managed to get hold of some recently.

　　[04:37.71But that shade of purple can be produced by chemical dyes nowadays.

　　[04:41.47Did you use any black dyes?

　　[04:43.40JIM: Logwood.

　　[04:44.66That was quite complicated.

　　[04:46.46I had to prepare the fabric so the dye would take.

　　[04:49.15TUTOR: I hope you were careful to wear gloves.

　　[04:50.81JIM: Yes.

　　[04:51.48I know the danger with that dye.

　　[04:52.96TUTOR: Good.

　　[04:53.39It can be extremely dangerous if it's ingested.

　　[04:55.80Now, presumably you had a look at an insect-based dye?

　　[04:58.80Like cochineal, for example?

　　[05:00.86JIM: Yes.

　　[05:01.85I didn't actually make that, I didn't have time to start crushing up insects to get the red colour and anyway they're not available here, but I managed to get the dye quite easily from a website.

　　[05:14.29But it cost a fortune.

　　[05:14.89I can see why it's generally just used in cooking, and in small quantities.

　　[05:19.71TUTOR: Yes, it's very effective, but that's precisely why it's not used as a dye.

　　[05:24.05JIM: I also read about using metal oxide.

　　[05:27.12Apparently you can allow iron to rust while it's in contact with the fabric, and that colours it.

　　[05:32.92TUTOR: Yes, that works well for dying cotton.

　　[05:35.55But you have to be careful as the metal can actually affect the fabric and so you can't expect to get a lot of wear out of fabrics treated in this way.

　　[05:42.71And the colours are quite subtle, not everyone likes them.

　　[05:47.08Anyway, it looks as if you've done a lot of work ...

　　导师：好，吉姆。

　　你想和我谈谈你的纺织品设计项目。

　　吉姆：是的。

　　我一直在研究如何用各种天然染料给棉花和羊毛等织物上色。

　　导师：你为什么选择这个话题?

　　吉姆：我从博物馆得到了很多有用的想法，你知道的，就是那个纺织品展览。

　　但是我一直对任何与颜色有关的东西都感兴趣。

　　几年前，我和父母去土耳其度假时去了一家地毯店，我记得那些所有令人惊艳的颜色。

　　导师：他们可能并不都是天然染料。

　　吉姆：也许不是，但为了项目，我决定继续研究这个话题。

　　我还发现了一本很棒的书，是关于加利福尼亚的一个专门种植用于染料的植物园。

　　导师：好的。

　　所以，在你的项目中，你必须有一个实际的调查。

　　吉姆：是的。

　　一开始我无法决定变量。

　　我只看一种纤维，例如棉花……

　　导师：还要观察不同类型的染料如何影响它?

　　吉姆：是的。

　　然后我决定把其他的也包括进来，所以我观察了棉、羊毛和尼龙。

　　导师：只用一种染料?

　　吉姆：各种类型的。包括一些不是纯天然的染料来做比较。

　　导师：好的。

　　吉姆：所以，我上周做了实验。

　　我用了一些现成的天然染料，我找到了一个销售网站，几天就收到了，但我也自己做了一些。

　　导师：这一定会花相当多的时间。

　　吉姆：是的，我认为这件事小菜一碟，实际上并非如此。

　　我用了一种蔬菜，甜菜根，做红色的染料。我不得不把它整个切碎。

　　所以花的时间比我预想的要长。

　　导导师：有一种可能的方法是使用食品色素。

　　吉姆：我用过一个。

　　那是一种黄色染料，一种人造染料。

　　导导师：柠檬黄?

　　吉姆：是的。

　　我先用在棉花上。

　　它呈现的颜色很好，但当我冲洗材料时，颜色就被洗掉了。

　　我本来打算在尼龙上试试，但我放弃了这个想法。

　　导师：你担心健康问题吗?

　　吉姆：我想如果这是一个合法的食用色素，它必须是安全的。

　　老师：嗯， 我相信它有时也会引起过敏反应。

　　导师：那么你在考虑哪些天然染料?

　　吉姆：嗯，一个是姜黄，

　　颜色很好，是一种很深的黄色。

　　它通常用于像咖喱这样的菜肴中。

　　导师：食用时，它似乎对你的健康很好，但你可能会发现用作染料时，它不是永久性的，经过几次冲洗，它就掉色了。

　　吉姆：是的。

　　我用甜菜根作羊毛的染料。

　　当我切甜菜根吃的时候，我的手总是红彤彤的，但是羊毛最后变成了一种稀奶油色。

　　令人失望。

　　导师：有一种叫做泰尔红紫的天然染料。

　　你听说过吗?

　　吉姆：听说过。

　　它来自一种贝类，在古代因为它非常罕见，只有重要人物才能穿这种颜色。

　　我没有用过它。

　　导师：几个世纪前它不用了，尽管最近一位研究人员设法找到了一些。

　　但是现在那种紫色的色度可以用化学染料染出来。

　　你用过黑色染料吗?

　　吉姆：洋苏木。

　　这种染料使用相当复杂。

　　我需要提前处理好布料，这样染料才能上色。

　　导师：我希望你小心，要戴手套。

　　吉姆：好的。

　　我知道那种染料有危险。

　　导师：很好。

　　如果你摄入它，会非常危险。

　　现在，也许你考虑过一种昆虫染料?

　　比如说胭脂红?

　　吉姆：是的。

　　我并没有做那个，我没有时间去碾碎昆虫来得到那种红色，这不容易实现，但是我很容易地从一个网站上得到了染料。

　　但它花了我一大笔钱。

　　我可以理解为什么人们只在烹饪中少量地使用这种染料了。

　　导师：是的，它非常有效的，但这正是为什么不被用作染料的原因。

　　吉姆：我也读过关于使用金属氧化物的相关读物。

　　很明显，当铁接触织物时，会让它生锈，从而使织物变色。

　　导师：是的，它适用于染棉质织物。

　　但是你必须小心，因为金属会影响织物，所以不要期待通过这种方法染出的织物的还能很耐用。

　　并且织物的颜色很微妙，不是每个人都喜欢。

　　总之，看起来你做了很多工作……

　　SECTION 3 Questions 21-30

　　Questions 21-24

　　Choose the correct letter, A, B or C.

　　Project on using natural dyes to colour fabrics

　　21 What first inspired Jim to choose this project?

　　A textiles displayed in an exhibition

　　B a book about a botanic garden

　　C carpets he saw on holiday

　　22 Jim eventually decided to do a practical investigation which involved

　　A using a range of dyes with different fibres.

　　B applying different dyes to one type of fibre.

　　C testing one dye and a range of fibres.

　　23 When doing his experiments, Jim was surprised by

　　A how much natural material was needed to make the dye.

　　B the fact that dyes were widely available on the internet.

　　C the time that he had to leave the fabric in the dye.

　　24 What problem did Jim have with using tartrazine as a fabric dye?

　　A It caused a slight allergic reaction.

　　B It was not a permanent dye on cotton.

　　C It was ineffective when used on nylon.

　　Questions 25-30

　　What problem is identified with each of the following natural dyes?

　　Choose SIX answers from the box and write the correct letter, A-H, next to Questions 25-30.

　　Natural dyes

　　25 turmeric __________

　　26 beetroot __________

　　27 Tyrian purple __________

　　28 logwood __________

　　29 cochineal __________

　　30 metal oxide __________

　　Section 3, Questions 21-30

　　21 C

　　22 A

　　23 A

　　24 B

　　25 C

　　26 F

　　27 H

　　28 D

　　29 A

　　30 E

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