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Working in high spirits
调酒师的激情一生：在芬芳与浪漫中度过
Lu’an, Anhui province – Gao Ling swirls a glass of baijiu, Chinese white wine, noting its lucid colour and sweet bouquet before taking a sip.
安徽省六安市——高玲摇晃着一杯中国白葡萄酒，酒心荡起漩涡，小啜一口前，它光泽的色彩和甜蜜的芬芳已经引人注意。
"Observing the colour, smelling the odor and tasting the flavor are three steps to taste a wine in a nutshell," Gao, a senior wine taster with Anhui Yingjia Distillery Co, a well-known winery in the East China’s Anhui province, reveals one of her know-hows to China Daily.
高玲是华东安徽省知名酒庄莹嘉酿酒有限公司的高级葡萄酒师，高女士说：“观察颜色，闻气味，品口味，是品尝葡萄酒的三大步骤。”她向《今日中国》讲述了自己的专业知识。
Though in her 40s, Gao’s gentle voice suddenly perks up like a young woman as soon as she talks about wine, with a big smile spreading across her face.
尽管她四十多岁了，但是一旦她谈起葡萄酒，温柔的声音就会忽然像年轻女人一样振奋起来，脸上绽开灿烂的微笑。
"Wine making and tasting is the kind of job that needs a happy state of mind in the first place," she says. "Otherwise, the wine would taste differently."
她说：“葡萄酒酿造和品尝首先是一种需要开心的精神状态的工作。否则，葡萄酒尝起来味道就不同了。”
It’s hard to tell whether Gao was born to be a wine taster due to her mild temperament or it is the pleasure of the work that has made her so easygoing and content.
很难讲，高玲是否是由于天生温和的脾气而成为品酒师的，还是由于这份工作的乐趣而让她变得如此温和和满足的。
"It’s a job that demands patience as well," Gao adds, citing an example that she once spent a whole week deliberating a formula.
高补充道：“这份工作也需要耐心。”她举了一个例子，自己曾经花了整整一周来研究一个公式。
Every other day in the afternoon, Gao goes to the factory, opens the lids of wine jars weighing 500 kilograms each, scoops one small cup, tastes, and then grades the wine.
每隔一天下午，高玲就到工厂里，打开500公斤重的葡萄酒罐，舀出一小杯，品尝，然后给酒评级。
The number of wine jars that she grades is usually between 70 and 80, and the whole process takes at least three hours.
她每次都要为70到80罐葡萄酒评级，整个过程耗时至少三个小时。
For each sip, Gao downs one third of the wine and spits out the rest. "This way, I can judge the wines without getting drunk."
每尝一口，她都喝下三分之一，吐出剩下的。“通过这种方式，我可以在不喝醉的前提下品评葡萄酒。”
But the job has its side effects. She has started developing stomach problems. "My tongue often gets numb and I feel nausea", Gao says.
但是这份工作也有弊端。她开始出现胃部问题了。高说：“我的舌头常常感到麻木，并且时常觉得恶心。”
But the health issues have never stopped her.
但是健康问题从来没能阻止她。
"The most basic ability of wine tasters requires the ability to spot two similar cups of wine among five," Gao says.
高说：“葡萄酒品酒师最基本的能力是需要在五杯葡萄酒里找出两杯相似的。”
"Of course, natural abilities such as a sharp sense of smell and taste are crucial, but it is diligence that is more important," says Gao, adding that she is where she is today due to 80 percent of hard work and 20 percent of natural skills.
“当然，诸如敏锐的嗅觉和味觉这种本能也是重要的，但是勤奋更加重要。”高说，她之所以成为今天的样子，80%是努力，20%是天赋。
In 2005, she became one of the 160 national-level wine judges – the highest honour of wine tasters in China. And she managed to retain the title, which is given out every five years, in 2010 and again 2015.
2005年，她成为160名国家级葡萄酒鉴赏师之一——这是中国品酒师最高的荣誉。她试图保持这个头衔，该头衔每五年授予一次，分别在2010年和2015年授予过。
Gao discovered her talent in this field rather late in life. In 1989 at the age of 19, she joined Yingjia right after graduating from high school. She worked in a few other departments, including packaging and distribution, at the winery.
高很晚才发现自己在这个领域的天分。1989年时候，她19岁，高中毕业的她加入了莹嘉。她在酿酒厂的其它几个部门工作过，这些部门包括包装部、分销部。
But it was not until at a wine training course about 10 years later that her talent in wine tasting was found. Gao achieved the top score during the training.
但是直到10年后的一次葡萄酒培训课上，她的品酒天分才被发现。培训过程中，她获得了最高分。
In 1996, Gao was promoted and moved to the research centre. In 2000, Gao started to train apprentices.
1996年，高被晋升到了研究中心。2000年，高开始训练徒弟。
Xu Guangsheng, one of Gao’s students, now one of the wine making masters in Yingjia, says it was Gao who spotted his gift. "Without her, I would probably still be an ordinary worker in the workshop."
徐广升是高的学生之一，如今是莹嘉葡萄酒酿造大师之一，她说是高发现她的天赋。“没有她，我可能仍然是工厂一个普通员工。”
Over the past 17 years, Gao has trained over 50 apprentices, and quite a few of them have become wine making and tasting masters in the brewery or in the industry.
在过去的17年里，高已经训练了50多名徒弟，他们中的一些人已经成为酿造厂或者行业里的酿酒和品酒大师。
Gao believes training is a good way to spot talent and learn professional skills. Each year, she holds wine making training courses for more than 500 staff members for a month. Every month, she holds wine tasting workshop for over 100 people.
高相信，训练是发现人才，学习专业技能的好方法。每年，她为500多名员工组织一个月的葡萄酒酿造训练课程。每个月，她为一百多人组织葡萄酒品尝工坊。
And it’s not just through training that she remains close to her students. Gao always tastes wine made by her students. "Only by tasting, I could tell them the places that need to improve."
她不仅仅通过培训和学生保持密切交往。高经常品尝自己学生制作的酒。“仅仅通过品尝，我就能告诉他们需要改进的地方。”
"Though wine making and tasting is subjective, I try as best as I can to share with them my honest opinion and advice, and leave the rest for them to figure out," Gao says.
“虽然酿酒和品尝是主观的，但我尽可能地与他们分享我诚实的意见和建议，并留给他们自己探索的空间，”高说。
The job wine tasting comes with certain restrictions – no eating spicy food, for instance. As a woman, one of Gao’s regrets is that she cannot use makeup.
品尝葡萄酒的工作有一定限制——比如，不能吃辛辣的食物。作为一个女人，高的遗憾之一就是不能用化妆品。
"No perfume, no lipsticks, nor any skin care products with fragrance," she says.
她说：“没有香水，没有口红，也没有任何带有香气的护肤品。”
But the positive side far outweighs any restrictions. "I’m the proudest woman in the world when my wine wins praise or positive feedback," Gao says. "Then I’m on cloud nine."
但是积极的一面远远超过这份工作的限制。高说：“当我的葡萄酒赢得赞扬或者积极反馈时，我是世界上最骄傲的女人。随后我就感觉飘飘然起来。”
